Martin Margiela

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Martin Margiela (born 9 April 1957) is a Belgian fashion designer and the creator of French fashion house Maison Margiela.

He graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (Antwerp) in 1979, a year before the Avant-garde fashion group the Antwerp Six appeared.

Early life and education

Martin Margiela was born in Genk, Belgium, on April 9th, 1957. After watching a television show starring influential 1960s designers André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne, he became interested in fashion as a child. He began assembling secondhand clothing from flea markets to create cheap but fashionable looks as an adolescent. His pre-worn clothes would later influence his work as a full-fledged designer at major fashion houses. Inge Grognard, a fashion lover, expressed his obsession with fashion and would later be the make-up artist for all of his performances.

He studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (Antwerp) and graduated in 1979, a year before the Avant-garde fashion collective the Antwerp Six emerged.

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Fashion career

Margiela worked as a freelance designer for five years following graduation. He came from Paris in 1984 to work as a design assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier until 1987.

In 1988, Margiela founded Maison Martin Margiela, which became his company partner Jenny Meirensthe's. Meirensthe, the owner of a designer clothing store in Brussels, described Margiela as "the most talented young designer" she had ever seen.

In the first show for his eponymous brand in 1989 on a derelict playground in a North African suburb on the outskirts of Paris, Margiela unveiled the Spring/Summer 1990 collection. It was an unusual display with uneven runways and deliberately stumbling models, resulting in a public spectacle that stunned the industry. His collection featured ripped sleeves, frayed hems, and clumpy shoes as opposed to the popular themes of extravagance, bold colors, and broad shoulders at the time. Local students were also encouraged to hand draw invitations in art classes in kindergarten and were seated in the front row during the performance to demonstrate reverence for the local community.

The ultra-discovert mark of Maison Martin Margiela consists of a strip of cloth with the numbers 0-23. The badge is stitched to the inside of four small, white pick-stitches, which are visible to the outside on unlined clothing. The anonymous tag was replaced by a modern logotype on the 20th anniversary of the 20th century.

In stark contrast to most of his peers, he has always been backstage and does not bow after his performances. He has never agreed to a formal interview or been photographed for any magazine since 1988. Both media contacts were done by fax and later by email. The intention was to highlight that his designs should speak for themselves and that they are the product of a collaborative team rather than his own.

The OTB Group bought Maison Margiela in 2002. According to Renzo Rosso, founder of OTB Group, Margiela remained as creative director, but "had not been involved in recent collections." He had secretly stated his desire to avoid designing and begin looking for his replacement. His close friends speculated that he wanted to "enjoy his life outside the fashion world's insistent glare." Raf Simons, Jil Sander's creative director, approached him in early 2008 and offered to hand over the reins of Maison Margiela to him, but Simons appeared to have turned down the offer and instead renewed a three-year contract with Jil Sander.

Margiela officially left his eponymous mark in December 2009. No successor was chosen, and the house continued to be operated by a team of designers until John Galliano was appointed as creative director in 2014.

Margiela was appointed creative director of womenswear at Hermès in 1997. The announcement that an avant-garde designer would lead a conservative and classic French house surprised the world. Despite the fact that his Hermès' plans didn't resemble his own label's forward-leaning pieces, he nevertheless applied a deconstructivist philosophy to his work. He pioneered a timeless wardrobe influenced by 1920s sports and leisure clothing, and was inspired by 1920s sports and leisure clothing. Despite initial skepticism raised by fashion commentators, he produced several understated collections, from loose-fitting masculine tailoring to black crêpe evening dresses that were the pinnacle of subtle elegance. Among his original designs are a jacket that can be folded and carried like a bag, coats with removable collars and fastenings, the Cape Cod watch's iconic double looping strap, and the losange, a diamond shaped scarf that has become one of Hermès' best-selling products. The ultra-luxurious rue St-Honoré Hermès store in Paris hosted all shows.

Margiela stepped down from his role in Hermes to concentrate on his own brand, and his mentor, Jean Paul Gaultier, was named in 2003.

Post-fashion career

Margiela deviated from fashion and went back to art as a form of expression. He spent two years at Galeries Lafayette Corporate Foundation in Lafayette, France, to produce more than 40 art works for his first solo exhibition, which opened in October 2021. Among the exhibits on display were silicon spheres coated in human hair, large-scale paintings of dust particles, and empty spaces that suggested the possibility of an exhibition that is "in flux, unfinished, and in permanent motion."

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