Hussein Chalayan

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Hussein Chalayan (born in Turkey) is a Turkish fashion designer based in the United Kingdom. (Hyseyin tajan]: Born 12 August 1970) is a Turkish fashion designer based in Belfast. He has been named the British Designer of the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000) and was given the MBE in 2006.

Chalayan is now teaching at HTW Berlin.

Early life and education

Hussein Chalayan was born in Nicosia in 1970 and graduated from the Türk Maarif Koleji secondary school in his hometown. At that time, the island's population was divided due to the constant clashes between the Greek and Turkish authorities. Ethnic tensions between the Turkish and Greek Cypriot groups culminated in the Turkish invasion of Cyprus, which culminated in human rights abuses against civilians on both directions. Chalayan and his family were forced to move to England in 1978 due to this.

He studied for a National Diploma in Fashion and Clothing at the Warwickshire School of Arts and then went on to study Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. His graduate collection, "The Tangent Flows," was released in 1993 with clothes that he buried in a back yard and exhumed right before the show, where they were shown with descriptive text that explained the process. According to reports, the burial and resurrection ritual would give the clothing a sense of life, death, and urban decay. The work drew the attention of the Browns fashion boutique in London, who borrowed the collection from the collection to display in their window display.

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Early career

Chalayan founded Cartesia Ltd. in 1994, as well as Hussein Chalayan, a ready-to-wear brand (which he renamed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" in honor of the oriental connotation of his first name, Hussein).

Professional career

Hussein Chalayans' fashion shows are characterized by minimal sets and a sense of anticipation, incorporating elements of modern interiors, urban planning, and geometric structures. His clothing are displayed across the body, as well as the societal and theoretical inspirations that inspired his designs.

Chalayan clinched a London fashion design award sponsored by the firm "Absolut" in 1995. In October 1995, Chalayan won a £28,000 grant to create works for the British capital's Fashion Week. Chalayan worked with avant-garde artist Björk in the same year, conceving the jacket on her album Post's front cover. Several Chalayan and Björk models also appeared on Chalayan and Björk's Post tour, which culminated in Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's in October 1995 for Chalayan and Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Post tour deb's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Post Tour deb jörk's Björk's Post tour, as Chalayan and Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Post tour of Chalayan and Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Post tour, as Chalayan and Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Post Tour debuted several Björk's's Björk's Tour deb's Björk's Björk's Björk's's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Post tour for Chalayan and Björk's Björk's Björk's Post tour's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's Björk's

Lands Without for Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were noteworthy due to the way in which he planned the relationship between his clothes and the body and his use of architectural proportions to intensify their interplay with their surroundings.

He brought models on the catwalk in 1998 with black chadors of varying lengths and nothing else, alluding to fashion's constant evolution of erogenous zones around the female body in reaction to changing trends. The first wore a chador, which covered the majority of her body and created a small gap in between her eyes. Each veil became shorter and shorter until, finally, the last one was nude apart from a mask over her head. This article, Chalayan, was about defining cultural territories.'

In a surreal cityscape of geometric shapes and distorted photographs, the Panoramic collection for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the possibility of infinity. The models were distorted into generic shapes and unified by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the top of the head, and faces and bodies were swaths of black to obscure their identity. Chalayan's fascination with nature in this collection was honed into its most basic graphic representation, pixels. Body and clothing were then transformed into a digital landscape, which was recreated in enlarged cube-shaped pixels.

He was hired as a design consultant for TSE, a New York knitwear company, in the fall of 1998 while still designing his signature line. His relationship with them lasted until 2001, when the firm decided not to renew his contract.

Chalayan's autumn/Winter 1999 line was inspired by car interiors to represent externalizing speed. He also imitated aeroplane interiors by attaching padded headrests to dresses. This project was based on a study of the body's inherent mobility and designed to incite concerns of speed, spatiality, and well-being.

The Before minus now collection for Spring/Summer 2000 featured a number of architectural dresses that resulted from his association with B Consultants, a London-based architectural firm, in Vancouver. The dresses were designed with wire-frame architectural prints against static white backgrounds, which were generated by a computer program that allows designers to explore a variety of three-dimensional views of an architectural landscape. The images were then transferred to silk and cotton fabrics using a mechanized fabric printing process. This collection also included the "Remote Control" dress, which premiered at the Hyères Festival in France in 2000 and demonstrated Chalayan's fascination with technology. The dress brought aerodynamics of aeroplane travel into its form and appearance, and it was deemed a hi-tech triumph that connected fashion to technology and technology to the body, establishing a dialogue between the body and the planet. The Remote Control dress was the first wireless device to be sold as a fully functioning fashion piece.

Chair Dresses from his Geotrophics collection for Spring/Summer 1999 featured Chair Dresses that represented both the idea of a nomadic existence and a completely transportable environment. This concept was later expanded in Chalayan's After Words collection for Fall/Winter 2000, which included some of his most well-known designs, such as "the coffee table dress." Hussein Chalayan emphasized the voluntary and dramatic part of mobility in Afterwords, as well as the emotional consequences of forced migration. The show, which was presented as clothing in the show's finale and whether or not the models wore off the stage, was accompanied by a bare, white stage flanked by asymmetrical planes on three sides and contained 1950s-style furniture, which the models adapted as clothing in the show's finale. One of the models converts a mahogany coffee table into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on the human body. The show was based on the belief that we would have to leave home during a time of war, hiding possessions when a raid was imminent, and using clothing as a way to move away possessions more quickly. The theme was an autobiographical representation of Chalayan's Turkish Cypriot roots and the political events that influenced his childhood. Chalayan, on the other hand, does not simply depict the situation; he challenges the cultural context in which migrants were forced to leave their possessions and lose their identity due to their unreachable quality of the objects. Since he makes the clothes portable personal residences, refugees can carry them with their identities and cultures on their unauthorized journeys. He does this by giving them a more active position in which they can adapt the physical appearance to the social context. In the 2001 Tate Modern's Century City exhibition in London, the Table Skirt and the entire set from the exhibition were later on display.

Despite this interest and praise for his work, Chalayan struggled with sponsorship and support, often receiving it from various other companies and his own country. TSE's decision not to renew his deal sparked more financial difficulties, as the designer owed 250,000 pounds in debt and was forced to go into voluntary liquidation. He restructured his firm and staged a comeback collection in 2001 without a catwalk display, and planned for high-street label Marks and Spencer to meet end meet. Gibo, an Italian clothing chain, collaborated with the designer, as did British jeweller Asprey, who appointed him as their fashion director the same year.

In 1999 and 2000, he was named 'British Designer of the Year' and was named a Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in addition to international recognition, where The Fashion Group International presented him with the Design Star Honoree Award at The Fashion Group International in New York in 2007.

Chalayan's menswear collection expanded his design portfolio in 2002, the exclusive rights of which were sold to internet retailer Yoox.com in 2007. He revealed plans to relocate his fashion shows to Paris after going through financial difficulties, including the need to move his studio three times and working from home with his team in-between. He added another diffusion line to his growing list of design jobs in 2004.

He donated a showpiece to the Fashion is Art exhibition in 2007 in aid of Radio station Capital 95.8's Help a London Child charity, which was sold at an exclusive auction in London.

He created a series of laser LED dresses in 2008 in collaboration with luxury brand Swarovski that was on display in Tokyo. Chalayan was named as the creative director of German sportswear brand Puma on February 28, 2008. Puma has also revealed that they had acquired a majority stake in his brand. For his autumn/Winter 2008 collection, the designer collaborated with German hoisery and legwear brand Falke to produce one-off footwear pieces. He opened his I Am Sad Leyla multimedia exhibition at the Lisson Gallery in London in 2010 and bought his Puma brand back. Nicola Formichetti and Lady Gaga performed at the 53rd Annual Grammy Awards on February 13, 2011. Chalayan has also known for his short films, such as Absent Presence, which starred Turkey at the 51st Venice Biennale in 2005 and Ambimorphous, which were screened at Mode Natie in Antwerp in 2002.

Chalayan was hired in 2014 to assist Vionnet's demi-couture line. He joined Vionnet's ready-to-wear development staff in 2015.

In 2015, Chalayan began teaching at the University of Applied Arts Vienna as the Head of Fashion of the Institute of Design.

Chalayan joined the University of Applied Sciences Berlin (HTW Berlin) as a professor in the fashion department, with a specialization on sustainability.

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Awards

• Hussein Chalayan received "Fashion Visionary Award" for his 20 years of Design Excellence during Audi Fashion Festival, Singapore (2013 May)
• Hussein Chalayan received The Lucky Strike Designer Award. This award is annually presented by the Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)
• Winner of Outstanding Lifetime Achievement to Design at the FX International Interior Design Awards, London (2009 November)
• Brit Insirance Designs of the Year Award in the Fashion category for the A/W'07 Airborne collection (2008 March) . A/W'07 LED Dress exhibited as part of the 100 nominations exhibition in the Design Museum, London.
• Awarded Design Star Honoree by The Fashion Group International at their annual Night of Stars Gala, New York (2007 October)
• Hussein Chalayan awarded an MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours List 2006 (2006 June)
• British Fashion Awards – Designer of the Year (2000 February)
• British Fashion Awards – Designer of the Year (1999 March)
• Winner of the first Absolut Vodka, Absolut Creation Award (1995 September)